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Welcome to Alexis's Orchid Webpage |
First, some Basic Rules: 1. Always sterilize tools and pots before repotting the next orchid plant. 2. Only repot one orchid at a time. 3. Wash hands after each repotting. 4. Water gently after repotting. Steps: 1. Sterilize the new pots by soaking them in bleach for about 5 minutes, then rinse them off with a water hose, top and bottom. 2. Sterilize the cutting scissors. 3. Lay out some newspaper on the floor. Place the new pot and old pot on it. 4. Remove the plant from the old pot. Check for any dead roots to snip off. Cut off any dead roots if you see any. 5. See if the plant needs to be divided. If so, carefully divide it into 2 or 3 pieces using the scissors to separate the pieces. 6. Put some of the pot medium at the bottom of the pot that you're using. Be sure to leave some room for the plant. Place the plant in the middle of the pot. 7. Gently pour the orchid medium around the roots, making sure not to pack it too tightly around the plant roots. When it's filled to the top of the pot and the plant is steady, stop putting the potting medium in the pot. Gently water the plant thoroughly and put back in its old place. |
Important News Update (posted 4-12-02) The President wants to drill for oil in the protected animal preserve in Alaska that's right over the oil pipeline. Right now, it's only up to the Senate members to decide if this is okay or not. This sounds not like a very good idea. Remember the Alaskan oil spill incident, anyone. Please help stop this from happening. Post letters to your local newspapers. Send letters to your local representatives and governors. Let them know how you feel about this issue and let your voice be heard. P.S. Sending letters or e-mail to the members of the Senate telling them about your disapproval of this idea might help change their minds. |
First of all, you're probably wondering why you should take my orchid advice. Here's why: I grow successfully all of the following orchids (they are split into easy categories for easier searching). Dendrobiums: pierardii, fimbriatum v. occulatum, speciosum v. curvicaule, gracilicaule compots(3), lichenastrum v. prenticei, primulin (2), moschatum, crumenatum (2), loddigesii, spectabile. Den. Hybrids: Diane Kouchu 'Kapahula Beauty', Mary Lee x Blue Twinkle, Orchidwood, Upin Red 'Asahi', Waianae Profusion 'Waianae', Woo Leng, Woon Leng, Youpadeewan. Cattleyas: Unknown (my mother's), C. Elizabeth Carlson (white), C. guttata v. leopoldii (4). Cattleya Hybrids: Blc. Tom Courtney (B. nodosa x Blc. Golden Embers), C (Mrs. Mahler x violacea FCC/AOS) x Epi. Cilare, C. Tripp Johnston 'Chocolate Fantasy' x Bc. Jimminy Cricket compots(3), Blc. Malworth 'Orchidglade' FCC/AOS x Lc. Chicanery 'Diana', Lc. Mem. Robert Strait 'Blue Hawaii', Bl. Yellow Bird, Blc. Golden Tang, Bl. Richard Mueller x L. purpurata (2). Phalaenopsis Hybrid: P. Lava Glow. Encyclia: cochleata (cockleshell orchid), cochleata v. alba, alata, secundum, Epi. noid, boothiana, Epi. longipetalum, radiata. Unique Orchids: Jewel orchid (Discolor), Unknown spider orchid, Stelis gracilis, Milt. sp., Milt. Hannover 'Red Sky', Micropera pallida, Leptotes bicolor, Blettia striata, Leochilus oncidioides, Stanhopea wardii (2), Stanhopea reichenbachiana, Thrixspermum elongatum, Notylia barkeri (2), Dendrochilum wenzelii, Neofinetia falcata, Nageliella purpurea., Chilo. lunifera (leafless). Oncidium: Golden Shower, ornithorhynchum. Paphiopedilum: St. Swithin 'Wallbrunn' AM/AOS, Psyche, Macabre, Faire-Maud(e). The "C" orchids: Cycnoches chlorochilon, Cyrtopodium punctatum, Cym. 'Showgirl', Cym. Golden Elf 'Sunburst', Chysis aurea?, Catasetum integerrimum/laminatum?, Calanthe sp. The "V" orchids: Unknown Vanda, a Vanda coerulea hybrid, Vanilla fragrans. The The "B" orchids: Brs. nodosa (6), Brs. cucullata, Bifrenaria atropurpurea. Gongora: aromatica (4). The "P" orchids: Platystele stenostachya, Pleurothallis brighamii, Pleurothallis grobyi. Tolumnia: variegata (4 compots), tetrapetala, hawkesiana. More shall be on a second page soon. |
-Cattleya Culture- Light: Bright, filtered sunlight. Morning sun preferred. The shade of a tree or screenroom is preferred during the warm seasons. They prefer 65-70% shade. Lightly shaded South windows are the best place for Cattleyas. Temperature: During the day, 65-75 degrees F. At night, 58-62 degrees F. Fertilizer & Water: Allow time to dry between waterings and water thoroughly. If it's in bark, water once a week. During the warmer months-fertilize with 20-20-20. During the cooler months-fertilize with a high bloom fertilizer (10-30-20, etc.). Fertilize on a regular basis. Potting: Repot infrequently. They like to become pot-bound. The best time to repot is when the plant is growing new roots. Use a pot that will give the plant a new growth space of about 2 inches. Humidity: A minimum of 50% is needed. Air circulation is important at all times. It's especially important when the humidity is very high. Fans are recommended in greenhouses. -Phalaenopsis Culture- Light: Somewhat less light than for cattleyas. Preferred places: a shady screenroom or a bright east/south window. 80-85% shade. Temperature: Above 55 degrees F at night. Below 90 degrees F during the day. Needs at least 2-3 nights of 50-60 degrees F to start flower spikes. Fertilizer & Water: You can water thoroughly, but don't allow the plant to become completely dry between waterings. Water it heavy every other day or every day depending on the type of potting mix used. Fertilize once a week with a full strength, water soluble, balanced fertilizer (18-18-18 or 20-20-20). Fertilize as you would a cattleya. Potting: They love to be repotted. You can repot them every year. But try not to repot during intense heat. -Dendrobium Culture- Light: Bright light, up to 50% sun. West, east, or lightly shaded window in the house. Temperature: At night, 60-65 degrees F. During the day, 80-90 degrees F. 95-100 degrees F are okay if there's increased air circulation and humidity. Temperatures that are below 50 degrees F may cause leaf drop. Fertilizer & Water: When in active growth-keep evenly moist. After the growth is mature (look for a terminal leaf), allow the plant to dry between waterings. Fertilizer should be given on a regular basis when the plant is in its active growing period. The fertilizer you need to give it depends on the type of medium that the plant is growing in. A good rule to follow is- -Give the plant a balanced (12-12-12, 10-10-10, etc.) fertilizer "weakly, weekly" when it's in its active growth period. In other words, fertilize the plant every week with at one quarter to one half of the recommended dilution. Potting: They don't like to be repotted. Like the cattleyas, they like to be pot-bound. It should be repotted every 2 or 3 years before the medium breaks down. Be sure to allow for 2 years' growth. They grow best in pots that are small for the size of the orchid. Humidity: They need 50-60%. -Oncidium Culture- Light: Bright, filtered sunlight somewhat like the light required for a cattleya. Temperature: Above 50 degrees F during the night. Below 90 to 95 degrees F during the day. Increase fertilizer, water, and air circulation in high temperatures. Increased shading may be necessary during the summer months. Fertilizer & Water: Make sure to water thoroughly and allow the plant to dry between waterings. Follow the instructions that are provided for the cattleyas. Potting: Allow the plant to become pot-bound, like the cattleyas do. |
This page was last updated on: June 26, 2003
These are some pictures I took when I visited Fred 'Del' Keefer at Orchids By Del-Rei. The greenhouse is located at 270 Swan Lake Dr. in Melrose, Florida 32666. Please call Fred at (352) 473-1207 first before visiting to make sure that he's there. I would definitely recommend that you visit his fantastic greenhouse. The following pictures speak for themselves. |
http://www.millicentorchids.com/
http://www.orchid-society-gb.com/
http://www.drover.demon.co.uk/HOS/index.htm
http://www.gopbi.com/community/groups/tropical-orchid/Pictures,_Culture_Ti.html
http://www.theaos.org/newsletters/index.shtml
http://homepages.tesco.net/~aeranthes/ThisSite.htm
~Bletilla Culture~ Growth: Spring and summer. Deciduous. Rests in the winter. Flowering: Spring. Location: Cold frame, rockery, or Alpine house if it's protected from frost. Cool windowsill indoors. Temperature: Summer max. is 65*F (18*C). Winter day is 40*F (5*C). Night min. is 33-40*F (1-5*C). Shade & Light: Be sure to provide shade in summer. Watering: Do not spray. Water freely in the summer but reduce watering in the autumn. Fertilizer: Fertilize from Spring to Autumn. ~Angraecum Culture~ Growth: All year but slower in the winter. Evergreen. Flowering: Winter. Location:Conservatory or greenhouse. Temperature: Summer max. is 85*F (30*C). Winter day is 75*F (24*C). Night min. is 65*F (18*C). Shade & Light: Be sure to provide shade in summer. Watering: Spray lightly in the summer. Water all year but less in the winter. Fertilizer: Fertilize from Spring to Autumn. ~Maxillaria Culture~ Growth: Summer. Rests in the winter. Evergreen. Flowering: Varies according to type. Location: Smaller species-indoor growing. Larger species-conservatory or greenhouse. Temperature: Summer max. is 85*F (30*C). Winter day is 60*F (16*C). Night min. is 50*F (10*C). Shade & Light: Be sure to provide plenty of light. Watering: Spray in the summer. Water all year, less in the winter. Fertilizer: Fertilize in spring, summer, and autumn. ~Encyclia Culture~ Growth: Spring and summer. Rests in winter. Evergreen. Flowering: Early autumn, winter, or spring. Location: Greenhouse, conservatory, indoors. Temperature: Summer max. is 80*F (27*C). Winter day is 60*F (16*C). Night min. is 50*F (10*C). Shade & Light: Be sure to provide good light. Watering: Spray in the summer. Water less in the winter. Fertilizer: Fertilize in spring, summer, and autumn. ~Vanda Culture~ Growth: Spring, summer, and autumn. Evergreen. Slows in winter. Flowering: Summer. Location: Hang in slatted baskets near conservatory glass or greenhouse. Temperature: Summer max. is 85*F (30*C). Winter day is 65*F (18*C). Night min. is 55*F (13*C). Shade & Light: Avoid direct sun but provide plenty of light. Watering: Spray and water at least once a day. Fertilizer: Fertilize from Spring to Autumn. Some links to some really neat Orchid websites: 1. http://www.geocities.com/phillipzwhite/Africanm.htm (If the links are clickable, just copy and paste the link into your browser) -a wonderful webpage on the history and growing of African orchids. 2. http://www.geocities.com/phillipzwhite/Opolination.html#Angraecum_sesquipedale -a great webpage about the pollination methods of a several different orchids. 3. http://www.geocities.com/phillipzwhite/Europe.htm -a great webpage on the history and growing of European orchids. 4. http://www.geocities.com/phillipzwhite/Australia.htm -a great webpage on the history and growing of Australian orchids. 5. http://www.atlantic.net/~dorchids/ -wild orchids, culture, growing tips, pests, and more at Discover Orchids' website. 6. http://www.geocities.com/phillipzwhite/growing_vanilla.html -a wonderful webpage about vanilla orchid culture, history, and more. 7. http://www.waterloogardens.com/care_sheets/cs_orchid_care/cs_orch_afr.htm -a wonderful webpage on growing African orchids. 8. http://www.bghamburg.de/forum/disa.htm -a german forum in german on disa orchids. 9. http://ftp.bbc.co.uk/education/darwin/origin/oosglos.htm -A website about evolution and the origin of species. 10. http://orchidees.provence.free.fr/jar.bot/cadre.jar.bot.ang.html -Links to Botanical Gardens of the World. Arranged by country. 11. http://www.orchidguide.com/findex.htm -a place for like-minded orchid people to get together. 12. http://www.edit.ne.jp/~fkoichi/indexx.htm -has orchid information plus stuff about Japan's native orchids. 13. http://www.orchidspng.com/ -Papua New Guinea Orchid News. 14. http://www.drover.demon.co.uk/HOS/index.htm -the Hardy Orchid Society page has propagation info, British Orchid Pictures, and more. 15. http://www.oneworldjourneys.com/ -An interactive guide to what's happening around the world. 16. http://troymeyers.com/ -membership is free, the orchid flasks are affordable, and I can definitely recommend them from personal experience. 17. http://www.hortpix.com/pc1502.htm -a website on different orchids. 18. http://www.plantzafrica.com/plantcd/disauniflora.htm -a wonderful webpage on growing Disa uniflora. 19. http://www.orchideentreff.de/Serie/Wilhelma/body_wilhelma.html -a german orchid picture gallery. 20. http://www.saunalahti.fi/orkyhd/kuvat/afrikkagalleria.htm -a wonderful orchid photo gallery. If anyone knows of or has any interesting and unique website(s) about orchids, feel free to e-mail me at alexislake@earthlink.net and send me the link(s) to them. Orchid info with some links (if the links aren't clickable, copy and paste the link to your browser): Cycnoches Culture "They do best in warm to intermediate temperatures (65-55*F) and medium windowsill of any exposure except north, protected from direct noon sun. Give them small, well-drained pots or hanging baskets with a fine mix. When their leaves fall in winter, provide a cool (45-50*F) drier rest with brighter southern light. Cynoches respond well to repotting, which is best done when their pseudobulbs are bare." (from the book, Taylor's Guide to Orchids, page 262-63). Links: 1. http://www.orchidspecies.com/cychnoches.htm 2. http://www.elparaiso.org/orchidata/cycs.htm 3. http://www.clanorchids.com/culture/cataset.htm Bulbophyllum Culture "Bulbophyllum creeps along a rhizome with its pseudobulbs spaced widely apart, and resents repotting, so it's best grown on a mount or in a shallow hanging basket. The trick to Bulbophyllum is humidity above 60%; good air movement is then essential to prevent rot. Many grow well under fluorescent lights, in warm environments (60-65*F winter nights) such as a plastic-draped light cart or in a basement, or in a warm greenhouse in shaded light. Water well while in active growth." (from the book, Taylor's Guide to Orchids, page 248). Links: 1. http://www.clanorchids.com/culture/bulbcult.htm Cadetia Culture "High humidity (above 60%) and constant moisture in cool to intermediate temperatures (45-58*F winter nights) can help Cadetia bloom more than once yearly. Medium light in a greenhouse is best. Grow them on mounts or in small pots of osmunda. Don't let these plants dry out at all." (from the book, Taylor's Guide to Orchids, pages 248-49). ***** Brassavola nodosa webpage link: 1. http://www.orchidculture.com/COD/FREE/FS231.html ***** Gongora Culture "A hanging basket is essential, with the plant positioned so that its pseudobulbs hang over the edge. Grow Gongora in intermediate to warm temperatures (55-65*F winter nights) but not above 70*F days. Give it high humidity in medium to low greenhouse light, or grow it under fluorescent lights. Keep it evenly moist, since Gongora does not like dry roots. Heavy fertilizer can encourage twice-a-year bloom. Move the basket to a slightly cooler spot with lower light when the flowers bloom, which will help them last longer. After bloom, let the plant have a short rest period, reducing water and fertilizer." (from the book, Taylor's Guide to Orchids, pages 282-83). Links: 1. http://www.jemorchids.com/gongcult.htm Another book with Gongora information is: 1. Simon & Schuster's Guide to Orchids by Alberto Fanfari and Walter Rossi. Be sure to check out my orchids for links page at: http://alexisorchids.homestead.com/Links.html (If the link isn't clickable, just copy and paste the website link into your computer browser). My new orchid gallery is now up at: http://alexisorchids.homestead.com/gallery.html Also, a webpage showing my beautiful backyard plants and gardens should be available by the end of the year. |
